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Fleece-Lined Hiking Pants — Technical Outdoor Apparel
Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2016 Campaign
Gustav Frich photographed by Alasdair McLellan and styled by Beat Bolliger for Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2016.
Raf Simons — Men's Raglan-Sleeve Archive Coat
Maharam Frame Bag by Konstantin Grcic
851020–002 Safety
Ripstop nylon with webbing lattice. Durable vinyl base with mesh detail. Self-lined. One interior pocket.
Clean with damp cloth.
17" W x 14" H x 8" D
(43cm W x 36cm H x 20cm D)
adidas Consortium x A Kind of Guise New York
From the adidas Consortium World Tour, the 'New York' pack designed by the Munich label A Kind of Guise with adidas Originals. Each city in the series was handed to a different boutique or design house.
Undercover × Uniqlo UU Fleece Jacket
Stone Island Shadow Project Button Shirt
Obscur Black Leather Fingerless Glove Gauntlet
UNDERCOVER Fall/Winter 2013 Leather-Sleeve Army Jacket
Visvim Sanjuro Kimono
Bally Spring/Summer 2014 Menswear — Hooded Utility Poncho
Undercover Diaplex Autumn/Winter 2007 Collection
Raf Simons Menswear Lookbook — Photography by David Armstrong
Nonnative Wrecking Walls FW2013 Bomber Jacket
The North Face Purple Label Down Cardigan
Devoa Panelled Jacket
Kia Low — Out of Sight by Rokas Darulis
Kia Low appears in Out of Sight, an eight-image Fashion Gone Rogue exclusive photographed by Rokas Darulis.
Styled by Magda Bryk, the canal-side story pairs understated tailoring and knitwear from Paul Smith, John Smedley, Marni, Hobbs, Bimba & Lola and others.
Kapital Fall/Winter 2013 "Indigenous" Lookbook
LONG CLOTHING Clip Pants in Black and White Tartan
Stone Island 50 Fili Quilted-TC Overshirt Jacket Navy
Stussy x Bedwin & The Heartbreakers Fall/Winter 2012 Varsity Jacket
Number (N)ine Spring/Summer 2008 “Birds” Collection
Nonnative Handyman Pullover — Nylon Ripstop, Black
stone island shadow project 3layer resist softshell jacket
BMW 3 Series E90 on a Vine-Covered Hong Kong Rooftop Car Park
Tao Okamoto by Josh Olins for Vogue China August 2013
Hugo Bavot Jacket
Adidas SLVR Fall/Winter 2012 Campaign
Jun Takahashi — Undercover Designer Portrait, Dazed June 2013
Interview with Jun Takahashi on Undercover AW13
Q: After two years away from the Paris catwalks, why was now the right time to show a runway collection?
A: After the earthquake disaster, we Japanese were spiritually in the worst state. It’s been two years since then and everyone is hoping to improve the present situation. I am one of them. I chose to have a runway show in Paris in order to restore myself. I thought it would work because going back to the runway was one of the things I had been hoping to do.
Q: Talking of the scar that Japan’s earthquake left on you, did it creatively affect your AW13 collection?
A: I was craving for creation, and that resulted in those one-off dresses. Two years ago, mentally and financially I wasn’t able to create such things. Those one-off pieces are my original works and made intuitively by myself. I am the only one who could make them. They are sacred works to me. I guess I like things where you can feel human warmth.
Q: Why did you call the show ‘Anatomicouture’? Was your intention to expose the inner bones of the garments?
A: It is a mentality of exposing the inner self, corresponding to my desire to reveal my creation and what’s going on in my head.
Q: Despite the skeleton and organ motifs, the collection is beautiful and seductive – does this come back to your interest in the contrast between ugly and beautiful?
A: Ugliness and beauty co-exist in human mentality. I always want to express those emotions.
Q: The AW13 show had the feel of punk performance art – why did you stage it like theatre?
A: Because the theme of this collection is related to human emotions, I thought my theme could be conveyed much better with such staging effects that would move people’s hearts. That’s why I used songs by Cat Power and James Blake. All the songs are great and meaningful and helped me convey what I wanted to express through the lyrics of songs too.
Q: When did your love of fashion start, and how did that lead to Undercover?
A: When I was little I loved drawing and had a twisted personality. I was so into punk during my high school years. My interest in fashion arose when I was around 15 years old and I was hoping to become a designer. At 18, I entered Bunka Fashion College. I was questioning about learning ‘design’ from teachers who were much older than me. So I told myself that I would learn only techniques in the school, nothing else.
Q: Undercover was considered part of a new wave of Japanese designers. How did your approach differ from the likes of Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto?
A: I am not sure if Undercover is part of a new wave and I don’t really care. But Rei influenced me a lot on things like breaking stereotypes.
Q: You and your friend Hiroshi Fujiwara collected vintage Seditionaries pieces and published a book about them, and you even appeared in a show of Vivienne Westwood’s designs in Tokyo in 1990. Can you describe the impact punk made on you and explain why it still resonates today?
A: To me, punk means a spirit that questions and abolishes conventional ideas. That is my fundamental principle. You can apply the principle to fashion design. It depends on each season, but I instil punk interpretation into my designs in many ways – for example, by fusing two contradicting elements or applying techniques that are generally considered taboo.
Q: You recently designed lines for Uniqlo and Nike – how did you enjoy those two experiences? Did they feed back into your work with Undercover?
A: The Uniqlo and Nike collaborations are totally different types of designs from that of Undercover. Therefore the collaborations didn’t really affect my work with Undercover. But for my career as a designer, both collaborations became good experiences. Working with Uniqlo gave me the opportunity to learn about the creation of mass products and newly standard items that are totally different from designing avant-garde pieces. As for the collaboration with Nike, I am very satisfied both as a designer and as a runner with the fact that I have been able to create products which integrate necessary functions for running with fashion-design aesthetics, which had often perhaps been missing in the existing sportswear.
Q: You’ve talked in the past of the difficulties with keeping up with the six-month cycle of fashion shows, and skipped showing in Paris for a couple of seasons – how are you currently finding working within the fashion calendar?
A: Right now, I’ve come to the conclusion that the six-month cycle is appropriate. Themes of each Undercover collection vary by season. If we could spend more than six months on a collection, and if we continue to work with the same theme for a year, it would be difficult to keep up the tension towards the theme and I am afraid that the freshness would be lost.
Q: AW13 got a great response. Will we be seeing you back on the runway next season?
A: I could strongly feel that a lot of people were waiting for Undercover and I was very thankful about it. I will be back on the runway next season.
Q: Next year will mark the 20th since you began showing as Undercover. How do you feel you’ve evolved in that time?
A: I went through many phases and experienced many things. There was a time we faced various troubles, or we jumped into things just by force of circumstances. But nothing was wasted. I am responsible for all success and failure of Undercover. I will go forward without being ashamed of the paths I’ve chosen.
giuliano Fujiwara FW13 Editorial
Arc'teryx Veilance Fall/Winter 2013 Vest
Hanna Putz — Friends of Friends Portrait by Thomas Lohr
Alexander Wang Fall 2013 Menswear — Hooded Leather Jacket with Face Mask
Craig Green Fall/Winter 2013
Engineered Garments Hooded Interliner Knit
Dark Suit — N.Hoolywood or Gareth Pugh Fashion Editorial
Undercoverism Fall/Winter 2012 Honeyee Editorial
uniform experiment x Benrus Military Watch
Haven Hall Long-Sleeve Cardigan Shirt in Navy
Visvim Maliseet Folk — Brown and Navy
Rick Owens Naska Biker Jacket — FW12 Mountain
Porter (Yoshida & Co.) Navy Nylon Daypack
White Mountaineering x Saucony Jazz Original Pack
Herno Laminar Quilted Vest by Errolson Hugh
visvim × The Black Sense Market AW12
Mastermind Japan SS2013 "Dreams" Skull Kimono Robe
Nanamica GORE-TEX Balmacaan Coat Navy
Aitor Throup Fashion Illustration
Maharishi Fall/Winter 2012 Lookbook
DSPTCH Paracord Wrist Strap
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou SS2012 Fabric Mixed Long Pants
White T-Shirt — Plain Basics Layering
Haven Camouflage Herringbone Tight Straight Pant — Dark Multi
SOPHNET. Camouflage Quilting Duffle Blouson
Men's Street Editorial Portrait — Monochrome
WTAPS Spring/Summer 2012 "Better Than Yesterday" T-Shirt
Nonnative Spring/Summer 2011 "The Bluffer's Code" Lookbook
Adam Kimmel Leather Hiking Boot
Folk Light Rainmac Spring/Summer 2012 — Navy
Barbour International — A7 Waxed Jacket
Ksubi Denim Jacket
Norse Projects Cotton Watch Beanie
White Mountaineering Navy Down Puffer Jacket with Camouflage Detail
Rogue Territory Work Trouser Herringbone
Firmament Berlin Store Interior
Sophnet AW2010 Camouflage Collection — MultiCam Trousers
Masked Portrait — Aitor Throup × Dover Street Market
Grumman F-14 Tomcat — US Navy Carrier Fighter
White Mountaineering Luggage Down Vest
Hestra Christopher Wool-Blend & Leather Gloves
Maison Martin Margiela Fingerless Knit Glove
Folk Light Rainmac — Phantom
WTAPS Crossbones Canvas Sneaker
Stüssy Spring/Summer 2012 Lookbook
Neighborhood MIL. PARA / C-Shirt LS in Beige
Engineered Garments Down Body Vest
Silent Ventures London Pop-Up Store
RUST C-JKT Cotton Flight Jacket
Carhartt WIP L/S Duck Shirt — Camo Duck/Desert
SILENT DAMIR DOMA Autumn/Winter 2012-13 Menswear Lookbook
Comme des Garçons Homme HQ-P025 Cotton Serge Cargo Pants
AllSaints Survey Double Layered Leather Blazer
Rag & Bone Heavyweight Padded Jacket AW2011
Woolrich Woolen Mills Wool Cap
Norse Projects Vorm Pocket Sweatshirt
Inverallan Cable-Knit Wool Beanie Hat
Engineered Garments FW11 Field Parka in Olive
Nanamica Nylon Twill Hooded Jacket
Visvim Serra Boot AW2011 — Tanned Leather and Denim
uniform experiment UEAFA Pullover Hoodie
Head Porter x Neighborhood Anchor T-Shirts
fragment design x Nike Zoom All Court 2 Low TZ "Midnight Navy"
FUCT SSDD Deck Jacket — Navy
Sebago Docksides Navy Suede Boat Shoe
Neighborhood Technical Apparel Denim Pouch
Visvim Serra Boot Denim Tanned
