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UNDERCOVERISM — The Men Who Wear Undercoverism
UNDERCOVERISM 2012–13 Fall/Winter portrait feature The Men Who Wear Undercoverism, photographed by Taro Mizutani with text by Issey Enomoto.
Music for Undercover + Flowers – Hiroshi Fujiwara for Undercover Relief Spring/Summer 1999
Lightning Archives Military Jackets (revised edition)
Lightning Archives Military Jackets (revised edition) is a reference volume that assembles hundreds of vintage military jackets—from field coats to flight and bomber styles—into a 242-page photographic index, printed in Japan. Each garment is reduced to front, back, and detail shots, annotated with brief data about model, era, and origin, turning decades of conflict and logistics into orderly rows of fabric, hardware, and serial numbers. The revised edition simply expands and updates this taxonomy, confirming that uniforms designed for war now circulate as images and commodities, stripped of purpose, filed away as another closed chapter in a series of collectible books.
Download link available below or through the server page.
Streetwear The Insider's Guide by Steven Vogel, 2007
Download Streetwear: The Insider's Guide by Steven Vogel PDF
"Avakareta Life" Editorial Styled by Jun Takahashi
Epperson Mountaineering Large Climb Tote
Wild Things Wind Shirt WT 1.0
A minimally constructed, articulated stow-away hood fits the head snugly, allowing a helmet to be worn over it. The fit of the shirt is generous enough to pull over a mid layer, but fitted enough to keep the wind out. Features include elasticized sleeve cuffs, an adjustable hem, and an angled chest pocket.
Fit: Under Body Armor
Weight: 10 oz
Berry Amendment Compliant: 100% Made in U.S.A.Features:
- 1/2 zip pullover
- One angled chest pocket
- Concealed zippers
- Adjustable shock cord hem
- Stow-away hood
- Elastic wrists
- Dropped tail
Materials:
- 70 denier textured Nylon with silicone encapsulation
Hiroshi Fujiwara AFFA feature in i-D Magazine March 1994
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou SS2011 4/5 Length Pant
These pants a cut slightly shorter for better running comfort. Great for slightly harsher weather conditions. Insideout construction for seamless fit inside. From the Nike Running Gyakusou collection. Made in Japan.
cp company urban protection jacket
Arc'teryx Hyllus Softshell Jacket
Junya Watanabe Solar-Powered Trench Coat
Arms 1 1999-2004 Chromogenic print Thomas Struth
Kogakuin University Archery Hall
The Archery Hall, one of two sports pavilions FT Architects (Katsuya Fukushima, Hiroko Tominaga) built in 2013 at Kogakuin University, west Tokyo. Each is a column-free room of 7.2 by 10.8 m under an exposed timber roof of horizontal and vertical members, bolt-and-nut jointed. The archery hall uses small timber sections normally used for furniture. Photographs by Shigeo Ogawa.
Sumitomo Hospital Seisen-ryo Apartments
The House of Yagi by Suppose Design Office + Ohno Japan
Text description provided by the architects. The House of Yagi is designed with the idea of an incomplete/complete form. Unlike other projects, the final stage of construction for this house was not aiming towards a finish stage, but to let the owner experience the sense of completion after living here. Interior space of the house is designed to maximize the interaction to its surrounding environment.
Avirex x Fragment Design MA-1 Jacket
Jun Tahashi photographed by Junko Yoda for Mastered.jp interview
adidas Y-3 Yohji Court — Footwear White (EF2554)
Tokyo Rooftops Ginza
Comme des Garçons × Undercover Felicitations 25 Leather Jacket
Acronym stone island shadow project Veilance
Nakagin Capsule Tower — Exterior Detail, Tokyo 2016
Nanzenji Temple Autumn Foliage, Higashiyama, Kyoto
UNDERCOVER: 30TH ANNIVERSARY LEATHER DOWN JACKETS
In 2021 designer Jun Takahashi has turned to some of his long-time friends in the Tokyo fashion scene to offer their take on UC’s signature hybrid style with a series of leather sleeve down jackets with various mixed materials and detailing. Created in partnership with peers sacai, Kolor, Fragment design, TheSoloist and N.Hoolywood. The jackets all take a different tact to exploring the same style of garment.
fragment design x Starbucks Limited Edition Black Coffee Mugs
Undercover SS15
Undercover Spring/Summer 2015 carried Takahashi's twisted fairytale into a more digital setting, with LED screens integrated into garments and bags.
Photography by Jeff Henrikson; styling by Emma Wyman.
Undercover AW14
Jun Takahashi framed Undercover Autumn/Winter 2014 around fear, warmth and royalty. Braided crowns and rhinestones were offset by vamp-red contact lenses, red mascara, tartan and toile de Jouy interrupted by UFOs, turning the runway into a corrupted fairytale.
Photography by Jeff Henrikson; styling by Emma Wyman.
Blouson L4203-3 Bomber Jacket
Putting his signature punk inspired twist to classic silhouettes- Jun Takahashi releases the L4203-3 Blouson as part of the brand's "anatomicouture" autumn/winter collection. Based on a bomber jacket the piece retains the rounded shape of the jacket along with ribbed collar, cuffs, and bottom hem. Pinstripe is utilized as the piece's majority giving it a more sophisticated aesthetic; UNDERCOVER's signature mixed material construction is also showcased in leather sleeve sections, and knitted sweater tail rear section. Functional components come in they way of snap button chest pockets, interior snap button pocket, and waist zip pockets. Made in Japan. Mixed material construction. Leather sleeve sections. Knitted sweater tail rear section. Snap button chest pockets. Interior snap button pocket. Waist zip pockets.
SPECTUSSHOECO Traditional Weatherwear DAY TREKKER LITE3
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou Holiday 2014
The Holiday 2014 collection is restored as the original seven-image studio set, separating it from the Holiday 2013 forest campaign.
House in Yatsugatake by Kidosaki Architects Studio
This private residence was designed by Kidosaki Architects Studio. It is located on the edge of the Yatsugatake Mountains in Nagano, Japan.
hiroshi fujiwara’s winter uniform
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2011 Retail Display
Undercover Jun Takahashi L9F01 Low-Top Sneaker in Bordeaux
UNDERCOVER Fall/Winter 2013 Leather-Sleeve Army Jacket
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou LunarSpeed AXL
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2013
Photographed by Azim Haidaryan
Produced by Panottica
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2012 Base Layers
Matsumoto Castle, Nagano Prefecture
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2011 Beanie
GENERAL RESEARCH OFF-SITE
Designed by architect Shin Ohori of General Design for Setsumasa and Mami Kobayashi, founders of General Research. Located in the Chichibu mountain range northwest of Tokyo, the site serves as both a personal weekend shelter and a field-testing ground for product development.
The structure is built on an elevated platform using locally harvested larch wood and features removable walls made from fiber-reinforced plastic. It includes two yellow dome tents used as permanent sleeping areas—one placed on a secondary deck and the other on the roof of the main volume. The central enclosed space houses a kitchen and dining area.
The shelter is equipped with electricity, hot water, internet access, and basic amenities, including a clawfoot bathtub. The location is remote but accessible, allowing the Kobayashis to engage in maintenance tasks and outdoor work while still performing professional duties remotely. The architecture is intentionally simple and functional, emphasizing modularity, environmental responsiveness, and a hybrid of modernist design with primitive outdoor living elements.
The project operates as a live-in testing platform for lifestyle and gear integration in a real-world setting, merging domestic space with performance wear prototyping. It represents an approach to architecture and living that prioritizes adaptability, utility, and a direct relationship with the natural environment.
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou SS2014
Visvim 2012 Subsection Series
The SUBSECTION SERIES is a fragrance collection by Visvim, inspired by founder Hiroki Nakamura’s encounter with French fragrance designer Blaise Mautin over 20 years ago. The series includes candles, room sprays, and diffusers, each available in various scents. Notable fragrances are NO.1 F.I.L., a blend featuring patchouli and sandalwood, and NO.7 KYOTO, inspired by a morning visit to Kyoto’s Sanjusangendo temple.
A Story of Yonosuke (2013) — Shuichi Okita
Hida-Furukawa (飛騨古川) — Dan
Dan's Hida-Furukawa (飛騨古川) follows the Seto River canal through the preserved old town of Furukawa in Hida City, Gifu Prefecture. The photograph was taken on April 15, 2009.
Ogimachi Global Dispensing Pharmacy — ninkipen! + TKY Japan
Nonnative Wrecking Walls FW2013 Bomber Jacket
The North Face Purple Label Boa Fleece Hooded Vest
Alley at Dusk / 日暮れの路地 — uruyuta
Building / 建物 — Shinjuku by perscape
perscape's Building / 建物 looks up along a tiled Shinjuku facade at night, where an illuminated sign reads カラオケ ビッグタイム 4F. The source tags identify a Pentax KX with an SMC Takumar 28mm F3.5 lens.
Snow Egg NISEKO — Riccardo Tossani Architecture
Maharishi Short Flight Jacket Spring Summer 2014
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou Holiday 2013 — Campaign
Campaign sequence from the Holiday 2013 archive set.
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou Holiday 2013 — Lookbook
Holiday 2013 lookbook sequence: garment systems, color fields, and repeated seams.
Bounty Hunter BxH iPhone 4 Hardcase
Tokyo Back Alley at Night — Ginza Corridor
UNDERCOVER "Fuck the Past, Fuck the Future" Oxford
Hiroshi Fujiwara Portrait at a Fashion Presentation
sacai — Nylon Twill Blouson
Mastermind Japan x Visvim Gila Moc Mid-Top Sneaker
Jun Takahashi — Undercover Designer Portrait, Dazed June 2013
Interview with Jun Takahashi on Undercover AW13
Q: After two years away from the Paris catwalks, why was now the right time to show a runway collection?
A: After the earthquake disaster, we Japanese were spiritually in the worst state. It’s been two years since then and everyone is hoping to improve the present situation. I am one of them. I chose to have a runway show in Paris in order to restore myself. I thought it would work because going back to the runway was one of the things I had been hoping to do.
Q: Talking of the scar that Japan’s earthquake left on you, did it creatively affect your AW13 collection?
A: I was craving for creation, and that resulted in those one-off dresses. Two years ago, mentally and financially I wasn’t able to create such things. Those one-off pieces are my original works and made intuitively by myself. I am the only one who could make them. They are sacred works to me. I guess I like things where you can feel human warmth.
Q: Why did you call the show ‘Anatomicouture’? Was your intention to expose the inner bones of the garments?
A: It is a mentality of exposing the inner self, corresponding to my desire to reveal my creation and what’s going on in my head.
Q: Despite the skeleton and organ motifs, the collection is beautiful and seductive – does this come back to your interest in the contrast between ugly and beautiful?
A: Ugliness and beauty co-exist in human mentality. I always want to express those emotions.
Q: The AW13 show had the feel of punk performance art – why did you stage it like theatre?
A: Because the theme of this collection is related to human emotions, I thought my theme could be conveyed much better with such staging effects that would move people’s hearts. That’s why I used songs by Cat Power and James Blake. All the songs are great and meaningful and helped me convey what I wanted to express through the lyrics of songs too.
Q: When did your love of fashion start, and how did that lead to Undercover?
A: When I was little I loved drawing and had a twisted personality. I was so into punk during my high school years. My interest in fashion arose when I was around 15 years old and I was hoping to become a designer. At 18, I entered Bunka Fashion College. I was questioning about learning ‘design’ from teachers who were much older than me. So I told myself that I would learn only techniques in the school, nothing else.
Q: Undercover was considered part of a new wave of Japanese designers. How did your approach differ from the likes of Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto?
A: I am not sure if Undercover is part of a new wave and I don’t really care. But Rei influenced me a lot on things like breaking stereotypes.
Q: You and your friend Hiroshi Fujiwara collected vintage Seditionaries pieces and published a book about them, and you even appeared in a show of Vivienne Westwood’s designs in Tokyo in 1990. Can you describe the impact punk made on you and explain why it still resonates today?
A: To me, punk means a spirit that questions and abolishes conventional ideas. That is my fundamental principle. You can apply the principle to fashion design. It depends on each season, but I instil punk interpretation into my designs in many ways – for example, by fusing two contradicting elements or applying techniques that are generally considered taboo.
Q: You recently designed lines for Uniqlo and Nike – how did you enjoy those two experiences? Did they feed back into your work with Undercover?
A: The Uniqlo and Nike collaborations are totally different types of designs from that of Undercover. Therefore the collaborations didn’t really affect my work with Undercover. But for my career as a designer, both collaborations became good experiences. Working with Uniqlo gave me the opportunity to learn about the creation of mass products and newly standard items that are totally different from designing avant-garde pieces. As for the collaboration with Nike, I am very satisfied both as a designer and as a runner with the fact that I have been able to create products which integrate necessary functions for running with fashion-design aesthetics, which had often perhaps been missing in the existing sportswear.
Q: You’ve talked in the past of the difficulties with keeping up with the six-month cycle of fashion shows, and skipped showing in Paris for a couple of seasons – how are you currently finding working within the fashion calendar?
A: Right now, I’ve come to the conclusion that the six-month cycle is appropriate. Themes of each Undercover collection vary by season. If we could spend more than six months on a collection, and if we continue to work with the same theme for a year, it would be difficult to keep up the tension towards the theme and I am afraid that the freshness would be lost.
Q: AW13 got a great response. Will we be seeing you back on the runway next season?
A: I could strongly feel that a lot of people were waiting for Undercover and I was very thankful about it. I will be back on the runway next season.
Q: Next year will mark the 20th since you began showing as Undercover. How do you feel you’ve evolved in that time?
A: I went through many phases and experienced many things. There was a time we faced various troubles, or we jumped into things just by force of circumstances. But nothing was wasted. I am responsible for all success and failure of Undercover. I will go forward without being ashamed of the paths I’ve chosen.
Shinjuku Toho Building — Kabukichō, Tokyo
Snow Peak Titanium Fork & Spoon Set SCT-002
Yasaka Pagoda, Higashiyama, Kyoto
Undercoverism Fall/Winter 2012 Honeyee Editorial
LABRAT x Porter Utility MA-1 Bomber Jacket
Nike Sportswear NSW 68 Bomber Jacket
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou SS2012 Fabric Mixed Long Pants
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2012 Cedar Camouflage
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2011 Hooded Running Jacket
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2012 — Collection
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2012 — Autumn Monks
