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UNDERCOVERISM — The Men Who Wear Undercoverism
UNDERCOVERISM 2012–13 Fall/Winter portrait feature The Men Who Wear Undercoverism, photographed by Taro Mizutani with text by Issey Enomoto.
Stone Island Shadow Project SS2010 Lookbook
The Stone Island Shadow vector continues with the project's fourth seasonal capsule collection. Fueled by new reactions within the project's original conceptual core, fresh manifestations of fabric, style, detail, and interface emerge as the lightest, yet most comprehensive, offering thus far.
This unique trajectory begins, of course, at a unique point of origin — the inimitable constellation of research and development that is STONE ISLAND. Hidden detail and potential action lies at the heart of each and every Stone Island Shadow style.
Enfolding this in a simpler, softer way, a new focus can be brought to bear on both resolution of shape and fidelity of color. The goal is vibrancy and directness; stripping away the superfluous without sacrificing capability, and the lightness that can only be found by moving through one's environment with zero resistance.
Modular Performance Grid, PARSEQ is the organizational framework upon which the idea is built: PROOF, AUGMENT, RESIST, SKIN and EQUIP. All Shadow fabrics work together as part of the grid — breathable, moisture managing, skin-friendly and maintainable — chosen for their balance of performance technology and the aesthetic treatments for which Stone Island has been known since its inception.
Oakley Plantaris Seek Collection
Porter Yoshida 80th Anniversary Japanese Edition Book
Download Porter Yoshida 80th Anniversary PDF
NIKE 2002 TIMING FALL / HOLIDAY CATALOG
Nike Epic Backpack Development
Issey Miyake A-POC Garment Structure Studies
Voice Figures by Margaret Watts Hughes
Made more than 100 years ago by a Welsh singer named Margaret Watts Hughes — not by her hand but rather using her voice and an Eidophone, a “recording” device of her own invention. She would sing into the Eidophone’s funnel and so make its diaphragm vibrate. She’d then bring this vibrating diaphragm in contact with a glass plate covered in pigment to create these wondrous images, akin to visual sound recordings, or what she called Voice Figures (and the more complex Impression Figures).
Dialogue Version, Andrew Basinski
From the spitting image exhibiton curated by Pop Gun and Heart Gallery
Nike Zoom Hyperflight Sketches
Takahashi Murakami for Issey Miyake / Naoki Takizawa ss2000
Epperson Mountaineering Large Climb Tote
arc'teryx leaf modular velcro pouch additions
Fleece-Lined Hiking Pants — Technical Outdoor Apparel
Able Archer Buttpack in Cement
INSPIRED BY VIETNAM-ERA U.S. ARMY SURPLUS "BUTTPACKS" AND USING HARDWARE COMMON TO VINTAGE GASMASK BAGS, THE BUTTPACK ALLOWS DISCREET CARRY OF A LAPTOP AND A VARIETY OF GEAR ANYWHERE, SPECIALIZED OR EVERYDAY, WITHOUT A SECOND LOOK.
HIDDEN WATERPROOF ZIPPER ALLOWS FAST ACCESS THROUGH THE WEATHER FLAP, AND HIDDEN POCKETS SECURELY HOLD MEMORY CARDS AND PASSPORT. DRAG HANDLE, BELT AND LUGGAGE LOOPS ALLOW MULTIPLE CARRY OPTIONS. HOLDS UP TO A 14" LAPTOP.
TAKAHIROMIYASHITA The Soloist eArth dyed sheepskin jacket
Marble Caves at General Carrera Lake in Patagonia
The Marble Caves, known as Marble Chapel and Marble Cathedral, are located at the center of the lake and were formed by waves over the past 6,000 years.
REI Co-op Traverse 65 Shoulder Strap
Padded mesh shoulder straps have body-mapped ventilation windows with clean bonded construction for optimal all-day comfort and breathability
Technical Specs
Material(s) _ Nylon/closed-cell foam
Product Line _ Traverse
Fits Torso Length (in.) 15"-17" inches,16"-18" inches,17"-19" inches
Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 1999 — A-POC Runway
Bruce Weber for Calvin Klein Jeans — 1991 Campaign
Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2016 Campaign
Gustav Frich photographed by Alasdair McLellan and styled by Beat Bolliger for Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2016.
Raf Simons — Men's Raglan-Sleeve Archive Coat
Maharam Frame Bag by Konstantin Grcic
Maharam Frame Bag by Konstantin Grcic
851020–002 Safety
Ripstop nylon with webbing lattice. Durable vinyl base with mesh detail. Self-lined. One interior pocket.
Clean with damp cloth.
17" W x 14" H x 8" D
(43cm W x 36cm H x 20cm D)
adidas Consortium x A Kind of Guise New York
From the adidas Consortium World Tour, the 'New York' pack designed by the Munich label A Kind of Guise with adidas Originals. Each city in the series was handed to a different boutique or design house.
Undercover × Uniqlo UU Fleece Jacket
Stussy Tiger Camo iPhone Case
AURSINC DSTIKE WiFi Deauther Wristband ESP8266
Able Archer Duffel Bag — Black MOLLE
Obscur Black Leather Fingerless Glove Gauntlet
Givenchy Obsedia Backpack in Brown Beaver Fur
A Kikuyu tribesman dresses up for a festival in Kenya
UNDERCOVER Fall/Winter 2013 Leather-Sleeve Army Jacket
VISVIM aw2012 BALLISTIC 20L BACKPACK
Supreme 18th Anniversary Alpha XBP Backpack
Visvim Sanjuro Kimono
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2011 Beanie
Aleppo, Syria. 2013. Photograph by Moises Saman
Salomon S/LAB EXO Tank — Women’s
The women’s S/LAB EXO Tank treats support as a mapped structure. A polyurethane EXO Sensifit grid braces the upper chest, shoulders and spine, while Smart Skin places Actilite Pro jersey through the core and open stretch mesh at the heat zones. The skin fit keeps the grid engaged; flatlock seams and reflective marks finish the racing layer without adding bulk.
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou SS2014
Akari Hayami — Japanese Fashion Magazine Editorial
Blender Fluid Simulation Render — CGI Water
Ralph McQuarrie — Battlestar Galactica (1978) Concept Art
Bally Spring/Summer 2014 Menswear — Hooded Utility Poncho
Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hilary
Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary, sat here drinking tea during a break before their successful summit of Everest in 1953.
This photo was taken by George Band, OBE, the youngest of the mountaineers on the 1953 British Expedition to Mount Everest on which Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made the first known successful ascent of the mountain.
SASQUATCHfabrix — Edward Coat (Patchwork, AW12)
TRON Designs Corian — DuPont x Disney Milan Design Week 2011
Parasite Dolls (2003) — Cyberpunk Anime
JJJJound x Ebbets Field Flannel Hat
Undercover Diaplex Autumn/Winter 2007 Collection
Cave Diving — Diver in Cenote Light Rays
Nike Heritage Shoulder Bag Editorial
Raf Simons Menswear Lookbook — Photography by David Armstrong
Nonnative Wrecking Walls FW2013 Bomber Jacket
The North Face Purple Label Down Cardigan
Building / 建物 — Shinjuku by perscape
perscape's Building / 建物 looks up along a tiled Shinjuku facade at night, where an illuminated sign reads カラオケ ビッグタイム 4F. The source tags identify a Pentax KX with an SMC Takumar 28mm F3.5 lens.
Devoa Panelled Jacket
Pinqponq Blok Backpack Cliff Beige
Kia Low — Out of Sight by Rokas Darulis
Kia Low appears in Out of Sight, an eight-image Fashion Gone Rogue exclusive photographed by Rokas Darulis.
Styled by Magda Bryk, the canal-side story pairs understated tailoring and knitwear from Paul Smith, John Smedley, Marni, Hobbs, Bimba & Lola and others.
Vince McKelvie — Running Figures
Kapital Fall/Winter 2013 "Indigenous" Lookbook
LONG CLOTHING Clip Pants in Black and White Tartan
Stone Island 50 Fili Quilted-TC Overshirt Jacket Navy
Salomon S/LAB EXO Tight — Men’s
The men’s S/LAB EXO Tight carries the trail-built Sensifit system into a cold-weather full length. The laminated honeycomb locks across the quads, hamstrings and lower back, then breaks around the joint before returning as a stabilizing knee frame. Actilite E jersey handles moisture, Smart Skin changes density by zone, and flatlock construction keeps the close compression fit low-bulk under a shell.
Stussy x Bedwin & The Heartbreakers Fall/Winter 2012 Varsity Jacket
Cadence Establish Cycling Glove
Number (N)ine Spring/Summer 2008 “Birds” Collection
WTAPS FW13 Lifist Lookbook
WTAPS FW13 Lifist lookbook image with Tetsu Nishiyama riding a vintage motorcycle, part of the collection’s lifestyle-focused presentation.
Bounty Hunter BxH iPhone 4 Hardcase
Nonnative Handyman Pullover — Nylon Ripstop, Black
Tattooed Man Lighting a Cigarette
stone island shadow project 3layer resist softshell jacket
BMW 3 Series E90 on a Vine-Covered Hong Kong Rooftop Car Park
Tao Okamoto by Josh Olins for Vogue China August 2013
Zolloc — 15
Mastermind Japan x Porter Spring/Summer 2012 Messenger Bag
Hugo Bavot Jacket
Hiroshi Fujiwara Portrait at a Fashion Presentation
Stüssy Deluxe x BLK Pine Workshop Spring/Summer 2012 Canvas Tote Bags
Neighborhood Motorcycle Gloves
Adidas SLVR Fall/Winter 2012 Campaign
Lexdray Shanghai Tote at Haven Shop
Jun Takahashi — Undercover Designer Portrait, Dazed June 2013
Interview with Jun Takahashi on Undercover AW13
Q: After two years away from the Paris catwalks, why was now the right time to show a runway collection?
A: After the earthquake disaster, we Japanese were spiritually in the worst state. It’s been two years since then and everyone is hoping to improve the present situation. I am one of them. I chose to have a runway show in Paris in order to restore myself. I thought it would work because going back to the runway was one of the things I had been hoping to do.
Q: Talking of the scar that Japan’s earthquake left on you, did it creatively affect your AW13 collection?
A: I was craving for creation, and that resulted in those one-off dresses. Two years ago, mentally and financially I wasn’t able to create such things. Those one-off pieces are my original works and made intuitively by myself. I am the only one who could make them. They are sacred works to me. I guess I like things where you can feel human warmth.
Q: Why did you call the show ‘Anatomicouture’? Was your intention to expose the inner bones of the garments?
A: It is a mentality of exposing the inner self, corresponding to my desire to reveal my creation and what’s going on in my head.
Q: Despite the skeleton and organ motifs, the collection is beautiful and seductive – does this come back to your interest in the contrast between ugly and beautiful?
A: Ugliness and beauty co-exist in human mentality. I always want to express those emotions.
Q: The AW13 show had the feel of punk performance art – why did you stage it like theatre?
A: Because the theme of this collection is related to human emotions, I thought my theme could be conveyed much better with such staging effects that would move people’s hearts. That’s why I used songs by Cat Power and James Blake. All the songs are great and meaningful and helped me convey what I wanted to express through the lyrics of songs too.
Q: When did your love of fashion start, and how did that lead to Undercover?
A: When I was little I loved drawing and had a twisted personality. I was so into punk during my high school years. My interest in fashion arose when I was around 15 years old and I was hoping to become a designer. At 18, I entered Bunka Fashion College. I was questioning about learning ‘design’ from teachers who were much older than me. So I told myself that I would learn only techniques in the school, nothing else.
Q: Undercover was considered part of a new wave of Japanese designers. How did your approach differ from the likes of Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto?
A: I am not sure if Undercover is part of a new wave and I don’t really care. But Rei influenced me a lot on things like breaking stereotypes.
Q: You and your friend Hiroshi Fujiwara collected vintage Seditionaries pieces and published a book about them, and you even appeared in a show of Vivienne Westwood’s designs in Tokyo in 1990. Can you describe the impact punk made on you and explain why it still resonates today?
A: To me, punk means a spirit that questions and abolishes conventional ideas. That is my fundamental principle. You can apply the principle to fashion design. It depends on each season, but I instil punk interpretation into my designs in many ways – for example, by fusing two contradicting elements or applying techniques that are generally considered taboo.
Q: You recently designed lines for Uniqlo and Nike – how did you enjoy those two experiences? Did they feed back into your work with Undercover?
A: The Uniqlo and Nike collaborations are totally different types of designs from that of Undercover. Therefore the collaborations didn’t really affect my work with Undercover. But for my career as a designer, both collaborations became good experiences. Working with Uniqlo gave me the opportunity to learn about the creation of mass products and newly standard items that are totally different from designing avant-garde pieces. As for the collaboration with Nike, I am very satisfied both as a designer and as a runner with the fact that I have been able to create products which integrate necessary functions for running with fashion-design aesthetics, which had often perhaps been missing in the existing sportswear.
Q: You’ve talked in the past of the difficulties with keeping up with the six-month cycle of fashion shows, and skipped showing in Paris for a couple of seasons – how are you currently finding working within the fashion calendar?
A: Right now, I’ve come to the conclusion that the six-month cycle is appropriate. Themes of each Undercover collection vary by season. If we could spend more than six months on a collection, and if we continue to work with the same theme for a year, it would be difficult to keep up the tension towards the theme and I am afraid that the freshness would be lost.
Q: AW13 got a great response. Will we be seeing you back on the runway next season?
A: I could strongly feel that a lot of people were waiting for Undercover and I was very thankful about it. I will be back on the runway next season.
Q: Next year will mark the 20th since you began showing as Undercover. How do you feel you’ve evolved in that time?
A: I went through many phases and experienced many things. There was a time we faced various troubles, or we jumped into things just by force of circumstances. But nothing was wasted. I am responsible for all success and failure of Undercover. I will go forward without being ashamed of the paths I’ve chosen.
giuliano Fujiwara FW13 Editorial
Arc'teryx Veilance Fall/Winter 2013 Vest
Hanna Putz — Friends of Friends Portrait by Thomas Lohr
