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UNDERCOVERISM — The Men Who Wear Undercoverism
UNDERCOVERISM 2012–13 Fall/Winter portrait feature The Men Who Wear Undercoverism, photographed by Taro Mizutani with text by Issey Enomoto.
Stone Island Shadow Project SS2010 Lookbook
The Stone Island Shadow vector continues with the project's fourth seasonal capsule collection. Fueled by new reactions within the project's original conceptual core, fresh manifestations of fabric, style, detail, and interface emerge as the lightest, yet most comprehensive, offering thus far.
This unique trajectory begins, of course, at a unique point of origin — the inimitable constellation of research and development that is STONE ISLAND. Hidden detail and potential action lies at the heart of each and every Stone Island Shadow style.
Enfolding this in a simpler, softer way, a new focus can be brought to bear on both resolution of shape and fidelity of color. The goal is vibrancy and directness; stripping away the superfluous without sacrificing capability, and the lightness that can only be found by moving through one's environment with zero resistance.
Modular Performance Grid, PARSEQ is the organizational framework upon which the idea is built: PROOF, AUGMENT, RESIST, SKIN and EQUIP. All Shadow fabrics work together as part of the grid — breathable, moisture managing, skin-friendly and maintainable — chosen for their balance of performance technology and the aesthetic treatments for which Stone Island has been known since its inception.
![stone island navigation series [under the radar] by liam macrae](https://storage.ghost.io/c/14/ee/14eef3be-ca5a-434b-8324-fa1f874026f1/content/images/size/w300/2025/09/stone-island-navigation-series-under-the-radar-liam-macrae-techspec-02.jpg)
stone island navigation series [under the radar] by liam macrae
Stone Island’'s Navigation Series: Under the Radar by Liam MacRae examines sonar, signal, and instinct in aquatic navigation. Radar sweeps above are mirrored by sharks circling below, drawn to a submerged emblem that acts as both marker and transmission. The study observes how symbol and frequency converge—technology tracing, nature responding.
moNa2 keyboard
The Inspired by kumakey’s “roBa,” the moNa2 is a small wireless split keyboard developed by shakupan and pooh.polo, designed to keep a desk feeling open and unclaimed. Two compact halves sit apart with a quiet gap between them, leaving room for a notebook or tools without forcing a single, monolithic footprint.
The layout is restrained: low, close spacing with a built-in thumb-controlled ball that keeps basic navigation under the hand instead of pushing you toward a mouse. The whole object reads as light hardware rather than a centerpiece, favors packing and redeploying—such as magnets on the underside so the halves can join together for transport.
It runs wire-free and is meant to be adjusted over time rather than treated as a fixed appliance. Typical usage notes describe it lasting roughly a couple of weeks of frequent daily use before needing attention again, with the exact cadence depending on how it’s set up and used.
Issey Miyake A-POC Garment Structure Studies
Miller's planet from interstellar
Form #7, Josef Schulz, 2003
Josef Schulz is a photographer known for capturing images of modern warehouses and factories, which are typically considered mundane industrial structures with little architectural significance. These buildings, produced worldwide, follow standardized plans and materials, lacking distinct external features to reveal their specific purposes.
Schulz's approach involves studying the essence of his craft through these photographs. He employs digital image processing to remove any elements hinting at the buildings' age, location, or surroundings, transforming them into virtual blueprints. By emphasizing colors, shapes, and symmetries, he turns the buildings into block-like structures, resembling toy architecture and presenting them as idealized versions of themselves.
In this process, Schulz blurs the line between photographic and painted reality to optimize the images. Simultaneously, he reduces the physical buildings to their design concepts and the photographic reality to its virtual representation. His intent is to diverge from the typical pursuit of making digital images appear as real as possible. This approach might leave the viewer perplexed, as they struggle to distinguish between authentic elements captured by the camera and those created through digital tools.
Canard-Delta Aircraft in Winter Testing
Epperson Mountaineering Large Climb Tote
The Honey Hunters Of Nepal
Nepal is home to the Apis Laboriosa, the biggest honey bee on the planet, and honey hunting plays a significant role in the local way of life. The bees build their hives on the cliffs of the country's foothills, which adds complexity to the honey hunting process. Local honey hunters use rope ladders and baskets to access the combs after driving the bees away with smoke from a fire underneath the hives. They carefully collect the honey treasure from the combs while dealing with territorial bees. The harvesting occurs once a year and begins with a harvest ritual that varies across towns, often starting with a prayer and the offering of flowers, rice, and fruits.
This unique aspect of Nepali culture is captivating, and tourists have the opportunity to witness the bravery of the honey hunters, explore the fascination of the Nepali landscape, and admire the intricate homes of the honey bees.
Lake Rotsee Refuge by AFGH Architekten firm
Fleece-Lined Hiking Pants — Technical Outdoor Apparel
Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 1999 — A-POC Runway
Mawashi UPRISE Tactical Exoskeleton
Andreas Fuhrimann Gabrielle Hächler - Zielturm Rotsee, Rotsee Luzern
The House of Yagi by Suppose Design Office + Ohno Japan
Text description provided by the architects. The House of Yagi is designed with the idea of an incomplete/complete form. Unlike other projects, the final stage of construction for this house was not aiming towards a finish stage, but to let the owner experience the sense of completion after living here. Interior space of the house is designed to maximize the interaction to its surrounding environment.
Oscar Niemeyer's MAC Niterói — Louis Vuitton Cruise 2017 Venue
Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2016 Campaign
Gustav Frich photographed by Alasdair McLellan and styled by Beat Bolliger for Margaret Howell Autumn/Winter 2016.
Raf Simons — Men's Raglan-Sleeve Archive Coat
Nanzenji Temple Autumn Foliage, Higashiyama, Kyoto
Obscur Black Leather Fingerless Glove Gauntlet
UNDERCOVER Fall/Winter 2013 Leather-Sleeve Army Jacket
Visvim Sanjuro Kimono
Vennesla Library and Culture House by Helen & Hard
M240 Machine-Gun Range Training
Have a Nice Day — M67 Grenade
Hida-Furukawa (飛騨古川) — Dan
Dan's Hida-Furukawa (飛騨古川) follows the Seto River canal through the preserved old town of Furukawa in Hida City, Gifu Prefecture. The photograph was taken on April 15, 2009.
Bally Spring/Summer 2014 Menswear — Hooded Utility Poncho
Undercover Diaplex Autumn/Winter 2007 Collection
Raf Simons Menswear Lookbook — Photography by David Armstrong
Nonnative Wrecking Walls FW2013 Bomber Jacket
The North Face Purple Label Down Cardigan
Devoa Panelled Jacket
Kia Low — Out of Sight by Rokas Darulis
Kia Low appears in Out of Sight, an eight-image Fashion Gone Rogue exclusive photographed by Rokas Darulis.
Styled by Magda Bryk, the canal-side story pairs understated tailoring and knitwear from Paul Smith, John Smedley, Marni, Hobbs, Bimba & Lola and others.
Kapital Fall/Winter 2013 "Indigenous" Lookbook
STANDARD OF FRAPBOIS — Polka-Dot Trousers
LONG CLOTHING Clip Pants in Black and White Tartan
Hoh Rainforest, Olympic National Park
Stussy x Bedwin & The Heartbreakers Fall/Winter 2012 Varsity Jacket
Number (N)ine Spring/Summer 2008 “Birds” Collection
WTAPS FW13 Lifist Lookbook
WTAPS FW13 Lifist lookbook image with Tetsu Nishiyama riding a vintage motorcycle, part of the collection’s lifestyle-focused presentation.
Nonnative Handyman Pullover — Nylon Ripstop, Black
Tattooed Man Lighting a Cigarette
Tao Okamoto by Josh Olins for Vogue China August 2013
Hugo Bavot Jacket
Hiroshi Fujiwara Portrait at a Fashion Presentation
Adidas SLVR Fall/Winter 2012 Campaign
Jun Takahashi — Undercover Designer Portrait, Dazed June 2013
Interview with Jun Takahashi on Undercover AW13
Q: After two years away from the Paris catwalks, why was now the right time to show a runway collection?
A: After the earthquake disaster, we Japanese were spiritually in the worst state. It’s been two years since then and everyone is hoping to improve the present situation. I am one of them. I chose to have a runway show in Paris in order to restore myself. I thought it would work because going back to the runway was one of the things I had been hoping to do.
Q: Talking of the scar that Japan’s earthquake left on you, did it creatively affect your AW13 collection?
A: I was craving for creation, and that resulted in those one-off dresses. Two years ago, mentally and financially I wasn’t able to create such things. Those one-off pieces are my original works and made intuitively by myself. I am the only one who could make them. They are sacred works to me. I guess I like things where you can feel human warmth.
Q: Why did you call the show ‘Anatomicouture’? Was your intention to expose the inner bones of the garments?
A: It is a mentality of exposing the inner self, corresponding to my desire to reveal my creation and what’s going on in my head.
Q: Despite the skeleton and organ motifs, the collection is beautiful and seductive – does this come back to your interest in the contrast between ugly and beautiful?
A: Ugliness and beauty co-exist in human mentality. I always want to express those emotions.
Q: The AW13 show had the feel of punk performance art – why did you stage it like theatre?
A: Because the theme of this collection is related to human emotions, I thought my theme could be conveyed much better with such staging effects that would move people’s hearts. That’s why I used songs by Cat Power and James Blake. All the songs are great and meaningful and helped me convey what I wanted to express through the lyrics of songs too.
Q: When did your love of fashion start, and how did that lead to Undercover?
A: When I was little I loved drawing and had a twisted personality. I was so into punk during my high school years. My interest in fashion arose when I was around 15 years old and I was hoping to become a designer. At 18, I entered Bunka Fashion College. I was questioning about learning ‘design’ from teachers who were much older than me. So I told myself that I would learn only techniques in the school, nothing else.
Q: Undercover was considered part of a new wave of Japanese designers. How did your approach differ from the likes of Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto?
A: I am not sure if Undercover is part of a new wave and I don’t really care. But Rei influenced me a lot on things like breaking stereotypes.
Q: You and your friend Hiroshi Fujiwara collected vintage Seditionaries pieces and published a book about them, and you even appeared in a show of Vivienne Westwood’s designs in Tokyo in 1990. Can you describe the impact punk made on you and explain why it still resonates today?
A: To me, punk means a spirit that questions and abolishes conventional ideas. That is my fundamental principle. You can apply the principle to fashion design. It depends on each season, but I instil punk interpretation into my designs in many ways – for example, by fusing two contradicting elements or applying techniques that are generally considered taboo.
Q: You recently designed lines for Uniqlo and Nike – how did you enjoy those two experiences? Did they feed back into your work with Undercover?
A: The Uniqlo and Nike collaborations are totally different types of designs from that of Undercover. Therefore the collaborations didn’t really affect my work with Undercover. But for my career as a designer, both collaborations became good experiences. Working with Uniqlo gave me the opportunity to learn about the creation of mass products and newly standard items that are totally different from designing avant-garde pieces. As for the collaboration with Nike, I am very satisfied both as a designer and as a runner with the fact that I have been able to create products which integrate necessary functions for running with fashion-design aesthetics, which had often perhaps been missing in the existing sportswear.
Q: You’ve talked in the past of the difficulties with keeping up with the six-month cycle of fashion shows, and skipped showing in Paris for a couple of seasons – how are you currently finding working within the fashion calendar?
A: Right now, I’ve come to the conclusion that the six-month cycle is appropriate. Themes of each Undercover collection vary by season. If we could spend more than six months on a collection, and if we continue to work with the same theme for a year, it would be difficult to keep up the tension towards the theme and I am afraid that the freshness would be lost.
Q: AW13 got a great response. Will we be seeing you back on the runway next season?
A: I could strongly feel that a lot of people were waiting for Undercover and I was very thankful about it. I will be back on the runway next season.
Q: Next year will mark the 20th since you began showing as Undercover. How do you feel you’ve evolved in that time?
A: I went through many phases and experienced many things. There was a time we faced various troubles, or we jumped into things just by force of circumstances. But nothing was wasted. I am responsible for all success and failure of Undercover. I will go forward without being ashamed of the paths I’ve chosen.
giuliano Fujiwara FW13 Editorial
Arc'teryx Veilance Fall/Winter 2013 Vest
Alexander Wang Fall 2013 Menswear — Hooded Leather Jacket with Face Mask
Craig Green Fall/Winter 2013
Engineered Garments Hooded Interliner Knit
Rocky Mountain National Park
Big Boss with Cardboard Box in the Rain
Alex Honnold climbing on Separate Reality, a difficult over hanging roof crack in Yosemite National Park, California
Dark Suit — N.Hoolywood or Gareth Pugh Fashion Editorial
Kekkilä Green Shed by Linda Bergroth and Ville Hara
Undercoverism Fall/Winter 2012 Honeyee Editorial
Monocle x Porter Boston Bag — Olive
Haven Hall Long-Sleeve Cardigan Shirt in Navy
Rick Owens Naska Biker Jacket — FW12 Mountain
visvim × The Black Sense Market AW12
Mastermind Japan SS2013 "Dreams" Skull Kimono Robe
Nike Free Woven 4.0 Obsidian/Squadron Blue-Smoke-Poison Green
MA-1 Bomber Jacket — Army Green
Aitor Throup Fashion Illustration
Maharishi Fall/Winter 2012 Lookbook
Jak & Jil — Three-Stripe Ankle Tattoos
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2012 Cedar Camouflage
Nike Free Woven Khaki Stadium Green Hyper Blue Pink
Nike Free Woven in Khaki, Stadium Green, Hyper Blue, and Pink, with a multicolor woven upper and white Free sole. Style code 555307-236.
Military Surplus Field Gear — ALICE and MOLLE Equipment
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2011 Hooded Running Jacket
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2012 — Collection
White Mountaineering Fall/Winter 2012 "Award Tour" Lookbook
Loro Piana Womenswear Editorial — Dark Khaki Sheer Shirt and Turban
White T-Shirt — Plain Basics Layering
Haven Camouflage Herringbone Tight Straight Pant — Dark Multi
Nike x Undercover Gyakusou FW2012 — Autumn Monks
